World of Tanks: Overview of Soviet heavy tanks and armor schemes. World of Tanks game. Tank booking scheme 3d models of tanks world of tanks booking

This article will discuss the armor of Soviet tanks from the game World of Tanks.

We will analyze the schemes of almost all Soviet tanks, with the exception of Tier 9 and Tier 10 vehicles. Let's start with the analysis of Tier 5 tanks, because it is at this level that heavy tanks begin to appear and there are problems with penetration and non-penetration for certain guns.

Each tank that you play and that is in your hangar has special battle levels where it goes. Let's say you have a medium tank with level 5 (some kind of T-34), you will never be thrown by a balancer to level 10 if you don't take another tank, higher in level, to the platoon. It all looks quite simple, there are special tables of the battle level balancer, from which you can immediately understand which battles you will be thrown into.

You are looking for your level (for example, T-34 - level 5, medium tank), according to the table we see that we can be thrown with tanks of 5 - 7 levels. In battle, a tank of level 7, or 6 or 5 will be in the TOP of the list. Having such a table, it will be enough for you to know how to penetrate tanks that can of a certain level.

We will also discuss the issue of armor slope, how slope increases armor resistance, how different modules (screen, for example) contribute to this.

In addition to the various painted areas that you see in the screenshot, there are pink areas - these are screens, those parts of the armor that are located above the main armor and hitting them will not cause damage to the tank. They protect well from land mines, in most tanks the screens are located in the gun mantlet. It also happens that the screens are located in other parts of the tank, in real life it looked like armor sheets that are hung on the main armor of the tank so that there is a distance between them, an air gap. It is this layer that extinguishes many cumulative and armor-piercing shells.

Let's turn to the tank tracks, which are shown in bluish color. Essentially, the tracks serve the same role as the screens - you can damage the tank by shooting at the front and rear rollers, but if you shoot at the track itself, you most likely won't do any damage or penetrate to the hull. This means that the track is a solid structure, as it is now on the KV-220. However, there are tanks where the tracks have gaps between the track itself and the rollers.

An interesting point: some tanks in World of Tanks have intangible modules that are drawn in the game (for example, a gas tank), but they are not present in areas where you can damage. Therefore, it is important to remember that if you shoot at the cylindrical gas tank of a Soviet tank, you will either hit the hull behind it, or you will miss it, because it is located just a little above the hull.

Now - about the slopes of the armor.

Let's take our KV-220, the scheme of which is presented on the slide. Some parts of the armor are inclined almost at right angles (on the turret), there is a large slope on the nose. It would seem that the armor in these areas is not the thickest - 80 mm, you can almost break through with a “stone”. But the slope almost doubles the armor resistance of the sheet.

To understand in more detail, let's look at the picture. The picture shows a projectile that meets the armor at a right angle and at an angle. The armor resistance of tilted armor is 1.5 times higher than that of non-tilted armor. A slope of 60 degrees gives a boost of 2 times, and 70-80 degrees increase armor resistance even more.

Now let's talk about tanks in more detail.

Let's start with the T-34 medium tank. She has welded armor, two armor plates are welded in a seam, and the seam therefore has the thickest armor. Hitting it doesn't make any sense. Various tanks have openings for machine guns and viewing slots on the front armor plate - most likely, these are the weakest areas. Each tank under the turret has a turning mechanism that you can hit too, it has little armor and can be jammed. The tank also has triplexes - a surveillance device on the tower, which can also be hit. There is also a commander's cupola. In fact, these are the features that are inherent in almost all tanks.

The T-34 has the thickest armor - in the forehead of the tower. Shooting him in the forehead is the weakest tactic, it is better to shoot him in the hull at the recesses or at the commander's cupola. The T-34 is a fast tank, most often it will flash in front of you with its side, so hitting it in the side of the turret is more likely than in the side of the hull.

The next tank is a Soviet medium tank called the Matilda. Premium tank, which is in the Soviet branch. The Matilda has screens on its tracks, aiming at its caterpillar, you are unlikely to inflict significant damage on it. It is best to shoot at the side if the tank is sideways to you. If the tank is moving forward, it is better to shoot at the commander's tower, or at the central front plate (highlighted in orange). Towards the bottom, his armor becomes thicker.

Most tanks in World of Tanks have very thin armor on top, so try to attack tanks from high ground.

Next - the T-34-85 tank. This tank has a very solid turret, but a "cardboard" hull, despite the fact that the side armor is at an angle of 60 degrees. The most protected place at the tank is the welded joint at the bottom front. The best places to break through are the machine gun hole and the notches in the front.

The KV-13 tank has 120 mm armor in the lower armor plate, 60 mm in the upper armor plate, while it is under an extreme slope, which makes its reduced thickness more than 120 mm. The forehead is 120 mm, but there is less armor on the sides. A notable feature is that the KV-13 has holes in the tracks, square “windows” are located somewhere between the rollers. In addition, the machine gun in the turret at the back of the head has poor armor resistance.

The next tank is the T-43. Relatively easy to penetrate into the forehead from the front and even easier - into the sides, the gun mantlet covers almost the entire forehead of the tower, this is the most protected place.

T-44 - the front armor plate is at an acute angle, despite the 90 mm thickness, the lower armor plate is at a less acute angle, penetration into it will be much more likely. Soviet tanks differ from the rest in that they have commander's cupolas - smaller than those of other nations, and it is very difficult to aim them.

Soviet heavy tank Churchill - all hung with screens, it is better to aim at his machine gun, the damage can go through for sure. Also, the tower - breaks through well.

The next tank is the KV. It has an interesting armor configuration, especially the front upper armor plate. You could repeatedly notice how you send a projectile to the KV forehead, and it ricochets up. And all because the armor is at an angle of more than 80 degrees - it becomes thicker than the armor in the mask. Therefore, you can beat him in the lower armor plate or machine guns. Also, the side of the KV always made its way well, not to mention the back of the head.

We do not end here, in the next article we will continue with the KV-220 heavy tank.

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The projectile hit the harp without damage? Did you hit the mask? Don't know where to pierce heavy tanks? You don't know how to set the angle to E100?

How much can you endure! Download this application faster! It will explain to you all your non-penetrations and ricochets, teach you how to tank on TT, show you the weak points of any tank.

Over 300+ tanks to explore! Detailed information about each group of armor on the tank, and, most importantly, displaying the chance to penetrate any tank from the selected weapon. Find out where you can pierce any tank with your gun, and where they can pierce you. Download this free app right now!

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• The application language is selected based on the system settings.
• The damage map from HE shells is built constantly. The longer the picture is still, the more accurate the result.

What's new in version 2.5:

• Blitz data update 3.1.
• HD textures! HD textures show the tank how it looks in the game. They are downloaded on demand for each tank separately and require a network connection.
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Screenshots and videos

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The projectile hit the harp without damage? Did you hit the mask? Don't know where to pierce heavy tanks? You don't know how to set the angle to E100?

How much can you endure! Download this application faster! It will explain to you all your non-penetrations and ricochets, teach you how to tank on TT, show you the weak points of any tank.

Over 300+ tanks to explore! Detailed information about each group of armor on the tank, and, most importantly, displaying the chance to penetrate any tank from the selected weapon. Find out where you can pierce any tank with your gun, and where they can pierce you. Download this free app right now!

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• The damage map from HE shells is built constantly. The longer the picture is still, the more accurate the result.

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One of the important elements in the battle when you are fighting enemy vehicles is the World of Tanks tank armor scheme, it will let you know the most protected places for your tank, they are all painted in different colors, each color corresponds to the thickness of the armor. As a rule, screens and the most poorly protected places are marked with pink shades. And the thickest armor is painted blue, most often for medium and heavy armor it is caterpillars or the frontal part, and the higher the thickness of the armor, the better.

An important factor for armor resistance is the inclination of the gun.

The higher the armor resistance of the main modules such as a caterpillar or a roller, the less chance that a projectile will hit your tank. For example, let's take the Soviet KV-220 tank, whose armor is only 80 mm in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe rollers and caterpillars, one could say that it would be easy to pierce it, but it has a wide slope of the armor plate up to 60-70 degrees, which reduces the hit projectile at a right angle to a minimum.

But for the T-34, which has the largest armor on the forehead of 45 mm, it makes practically no sense to shoot, because there is welded armor that is laid in several seams, but as for the recesses near the machine guns, these are most likely weak points, so the same as the turning mechanism, which, like in most Soviet tanks, can be jammed. The T34-85 modification has solid armor, but the hull itself leaves much to be desired.

The most protected place is the welded joint from below, and the weakest is where the machine gun and front recesses are located.

Now let's go through the armor scheme of foreign tanks. Let's take a tank from the American and Swedish branches for comparison. From the Swedes for the supertest, they brought us a tank destroyer Ikv65 II medium tank of level 6, with a good powerful 90 mm gun, but with very weak armor, almost everything in this tank is highlighted in red, which gives a poor armor resistance indicator. But the tank has good speed, so coupled with a powerful Bofors cannon, you can try to dodge enemy bullets.

The American T26E5 does a little better with armor, due to the fact that it is already a heavy tank, with good indicators of accuracy and firepower of guns. No wonder this car got into the premium level.

Players will be pleased with the high performance. However, despite its solid construction, it is still worse in terms of armor plate than its competitor T32. The tracks and the rear of the armor plate are well protected, but the side of the turret is rather weak. If you want to survive on such a tank, be guided by the safety of armor plates, they are best protected here.

We hope now that you understand what the World of Tanks tank armor scheme is and how it differs, this will help you select the most optimal tank of your level for successful battles

If you have not yet decided which side to fight for in the popular game World of Tanks, then we advise you to start with the Soviet Union. The leveling of Soviet technology is not only one of the most understandable and accessible, but also carries a lot of advantages for beginners. Also today we will talk about armor schemes for tanks in World of Tanks - a question that worries many players.

general characteristics

You can unleash the full potential of a particular Soviet tank in the game without having a lot of experience or distinctive skills. That is why beginners prefer to start their acquaintance with this category.

In general, such tanks can be described as heavy vehicles with medium guns, low accuracy, and powerful one-shot damage. The penetration of the KB-1C model is 175 millimeters, and the damage is about 390 units - such statistics can be achieved already at the sixth level. Also, Soviet tanks boast round armor, ricochet armor and diesel engines, the probability of ignition of which is very, very low.

If everything is clear with the meaning of the word "booking", then what about its scheme? As a rule, any World of Tanks tank armor scheme is presented in 3D. This is a visual representation of the model with the most protected areas. Each section is painted in a different color.

Tanks KV-1 and "Churchill III"

Tank model KV-1 is one of the most powerful and stable units. Proper positioning on the field makes him practically invulnerable and gives him a considerable advantage over enemies. As for the guns, here you can choose one of three. We advise you to take a closer look at the U-11 land mine with a caliber of 122 mm and a damage output of 370 units. Having such a weapon at the fifth level, you can easily deal with any opponent.

If you are fighting a KV-1 tank at a long distance, then shoot at the lower armor plate. When fighting at close range, you can gain an advantage by breaking through any weakened zone located in the front. Attacking the tower is not worth it, since its armor is much stronger than any other site.

Tank "Churchill III" is included in the premium category, which is sold to players for real money. Despite the fact that the armor of this model is significantly different from the KV-1, and not for the better, its main advantage is a powerful hole punch. With it, you can deal with light and medium tanks. You will not be able to attack vehicles with higher performance. If the class and nation of the Churchill III matches any other tank in your collection, then one crew can be shared between them.

Unlike the KV-I, on the Churchill III it is the tower that is the weakest and most unprotected place. Screens are located in the most unexpected places, and their number can vary greatly, so avoid the side and stern areas, and do not shoot at them with a land mine.

You can look at the World of Tanks armor scheme for the KV-1 and Churchill III tanks in the photo below. The illustration clearly shows all the details.

Tank armor scheme in World of Tanks - Japanese technique

But what about foreign tanks? Japanese tanks, along with Soviet ones, are very popular among WoT players. Having reached the fifth level of pumping, equipment from the Land of the Rising Sun begins to pose a serious threat to its opponent.

The Japanese World of Tanks tank armor scheme does not have much variation. Almost all tanks have a "cardboard" roof and stern. If you are playing on the neutral side and your goal is to break through the Japanese giant, then we do not recommend focusing on the lower armor plate, since only a gun with a caliber of at least 100 millimeters can penetrate it.

The best targets in this case may be the tower and the armor plate located in the upper part. As for the protective screens on both sides of the stern, they can be dealt with using a land mine or splash attacks.

tank inspector

"Tank Inspector" (eng. - Tank Inspector) is an automatic program for tank armor schemes in World of Tanks. Using this software, you will get the most complete information about a particular tank, the model of which is in the game. In addition to ready-made armor schemes, in Tank Inspector you can find information about average income, the number of points for durability, movement speed, overview indicators, balance level statistics during battles, and much more. Developers are constantly adding something new to the already available features to make the program even more useful.

Just started playing World of Tanks? Don't know which branches to download? Of course, it is better to be the first in the World of Tanks to pump Soviet weights! Soviet bands are thick and ricochet armor, cool rifled barrels and two equivalent tank upgrades!

In World of Tanks, Soviets have two full branches of heavy tanks. They are considered to be the most obsessive and nagibatory in the game, and there is a simple explanation for this. Most players in World of Tanks are Russian-speaking, and they begin their acquaintance with the game with Soviet tanks. With their inept actions, beginners seriously lose the statistics on these tanks, and the developers, in turn, balance the tanks by the percentage of victories! When a player, having played on Soviet tanks, goes to download other nations, he already has a good game experience, and he is much better at playing them.

As a result, to unleash the potential of a Soviet heavy tank, you do not need much experience or skill. Although both, of course, do not hurt. So if you don't know which tanks to start your acquaintance with the game with, download the Soviet heavyweights!

In general, Soviet heavy tanks in World of Tanks have good cannons with medium penetration, low accuracy, and high one-time damage. Thus, the KV-1S heavy tank boasts a penetration of 175 mm and one-time damage of 390 units, and all this splendor is already at Tier VI! However, Soviet heavy tanks also have a kind of nerf that is inherent in absolutely all tanks - the guns on Soviet tanks do not really go down, which leaves a serious imprint on the gameplay. Excellent all-round armor, ricochet armor with rational angles of inclination and diesel engines with a very low probability of ignition complete the joyful picture.

After pumping the KV-1, Soviet heavy tanks are divided into two branches. KV-1S, IS, IS-3, IS-8 and IS-7 received good dynamics and maximum speed in exchange for lighter armor. T-150, KV-3, KV-4, ST-1 and IS-4, on the contrary, have excellent all-round armor, including thick sides, but weaker dynamics and low maximum speed.

If you choose from two upgrade branches, it will be easier for a beginner to play tanks from the second, heavily armored branch. This way, an inexperienced player will be less likely to rush somewhere at the beginning of the battle and merge, and better armor may save a life in the middle of the battle. Skilled players, with a percentage of victories over 50, are better off with more dynamic tanks from the first branch. It is on the dynamic Soviet heavy that it is easiest to solve and pull out a drain fight. I repeat, this is only if the hands grow from the right place.

Overview of the KV-1 tank and booking scheme

The Soviet heavy tank KV-1 is one of the most powerful and easy to use heavy tanks in World of Tanks. With the correct placement of a rhombus, excellent circular armor of 75 mm makes it practically invulnerable to classmates. This tank is given three good guns to choose from, which is also very unusual. So, the 57 mm project 413 gun makes the KV-1 very similar to the lend-lease Churchill III. However, unlike Churchill, the KV-1 has no concessions in the form of a reduced level of combat, so it is strongly not recommended to ride with a 57 mm gun. Although at the top of the fight, the hole puncher is a lot of fun to play with.

Usually, players choose the 85 mm F-30 gun, with which you can pierce almost any Tier V-VI heavy tank head-on.

Well, for those of you who came to World of Tanks for fun and bending over, and who are ready to pour credits and play with premium shells, I recommend taking a closer look at the 122 mm U-11 “high explosive”, which, in addition to high explosives, has magic cumulatives with penetration 140 mm and one-time damage of 370 units, which is a record at level V. The pleasure, of course, is not cheap, each such shot will cost you 4800 credits. But believe me, if you are looking for a bend for the money, it's worth it.

Personally, I have the most pleasant memories of the KV-1. Even now, I periodically roll out this wonderful tank with a 122 mm U-11 high-explosive gun on cumulatives, purely for fun.

Armor scheme of the KV-1 tank

At a long distance, the KV-1 is best to penetrate the lower armor plate or sides (75 mm) if fired at 90 degrees. At close range - to target weakened zones in the frontal projection - the driver's hatch and a machine-gun apple (60 mm). When shooting at the stern of the tank, it makes sense to shoot at the top, where the armor is thinner (60 mm). The turret has better armor than the hull, so shooting at the turret is not recommended.

Overview of the Churchill III tank and booking scheme

Speaking of Soviet heavy tanks, one cannot fail to mention the Lend-Lease tank Churchill III. What does an ordinary player need to know about premium tanks in general and Churchill in particular? In World of Tanks, premium tanks are only sold for real money. The main rule regarding premium tanks is that these tanks farm credits well, but they are always weaker than their classmates. Therefore, it is believed that premium tanks do not bend. It is not necessary to buy a crew for them, you can temporarily transfer the crew from any tank to premium tanks, the main thing is that they be tanks of the same class and one nation.

Although the Churchill III is inferior to the KV-1 in terms of armor, and has inexpressive dynamics and a low maximum speed, Churchill has a hole puncher that is quite decent for a Tier V premium tank, which severely punishes light and medium tanks. But with the penetration of well-armored strands such as KV-1 and T-150, things are not going well for Churchill III. Fortunately, Church has a reduced level of battles, and does not throw him above level VI.

Now about farming: by taking the “Master” achievement on Churchill III, you can get about 25 thousand net loans. Those. in a normal battle, even with successful hands, getting more than 20 thousand credits on Church is not at all easy. In this regard, the Churchill III is not at all a competitor to the Tier VIII IS-6 and KV-5 farm-harvesters. But wealthy guys can buy this tank for pumping crews, since you can earn much more experience on Churchill III than on a regular tank.

Personally, I bought this wonderful tank a long time ago, almost every day I shoot down stars on it, pumping the crews of Soviet heavy loads, and I am very pleased with the purchase.

Armor scheme of the Churchill III tank

The weakest point of Churchill III is the turret, in particular, the forehead of the turret on both sides of the gun mantlet (88 mm). If you wish, you can target weakened zones in the frontal projection of the hull (60 mm), but given the weak armor of the turret, this does not make much sense. The tank has a large number of screens in the most unexpected places, so it is not recommended to shoot it at the sides and stern with cumulative and high-explosive shells.

Overview of the KV-2 tank and booking scheme

Once upon a time, the KV-2 was just a top-end turret for the KV, and it bent everything alive at level V. But the subsequent division of the KV into the KV-1 and KV-2, the transfer of the KV-2 to Tier VI, and a series of nerfs led to the fact that now the KV-2 is a heavy tank with sluggish dynamics and unusual game mechanics. If you want to get an unusual gaming experience and play with the 152 mm M-10 high-explosive gun, take the tank boldly. If you want to get to the artillery by jumping from Tier VI KV-2 to Tier VII S-51, all the more so. In this case, you can put a good 107 mm ZiS-6 gun on the tank, like on the T-150. But in general, the KV-2 is a cactus that does not have to be chewed at all. And playing with the 107 mm ZiS-6 gun is better, after all, on the T-150.

For me personally, the KV-2 is a source of extremely unpleasant memories. After the introduction of premium shells for loans for about half a year, the tank brutally bent on cumulatives, but in patch 0.8.6. they were removed. I see no point in rolling the KV-2 on land mines, and even more so - armor-piercing shells.

Armor scheme of the KV-2 tank

At close range in the frontal projection there are weakened zones - the driver's hatch and a machine-gun apple (60 mm). In the rear of the hull, the upper protruding part has weaker armor (60 mm) than the lower one (70 mm). At the back of the head of the tower there is a large weakened zone - a hatch (60 mm).

Overview of the KV-1S tank and booking scheme

This tank is a lighter version of the heavy Soviet KV-1 tank. The side armor of the KV-1S is thinner, the engine is better, and the strength is higher. In the top configuration, the KV-1S is equipped with a 122 mm D2-5T imbo gun with excellent penetration at Tier VI and the highest single-shot damage. Of course, this is partially compensated by the long reload time, epically long mixing and huge spread, but only partially. In total, at Tier VI we have a very dynamic heavy tank with a monstrously powerful gun.

Despite the good dynamics, one should not think that the KV-1S is a medium tank. Compared to the real ST KV-1S, it sluggishly goes uphill, and its visibility is much higher. In addition, with each of your shots from the top-end 122 mm gun with a muzzle brake, you will, as it were, signal to the enemies: “Here I am! Shoot me!" At the same time, the speed of movement back causes sadness and sadness: it’s not easy to get out of the fired position in reverse!

In the middle and at the bottom of the list, the KV-1S, in terms of game mechanics, rather resembles a turret tank destroyer, only without the stealth bonus inherent in tank destroyers when stationary. So you need to be careful when bending over the KV-1C. You always need to remember that once at the very bottom of the list, the KV-1S automatically becomes the No. 1 target for enemy tanks. He's very dangerous!

The KV-1S is one of the few tanks in the game that I have never sold and never even thought about selling! It really is a decoration of the game.

Booking schemes for the KV-1S tank

In the KV-1S tank, in the frontal projection, the weakened zones are: the lower armor plate, the driver's hatch and the machine-gun apple (60 mm). If the KV-1S plays through the turret, the commander's hatch on the roof of the turret (90 mm) can be considered a weakened zone. The sides and stern break through without problems, while the KV-1S turret is quite ricocheted and has better armor.

Overview of the T-150 tank and booking scheme

Unlike the KV-1S with cardboard sides, the T-150 has improved armor compared to the KV-1 and a 107 mm ZiS-6 gun. Although it has less penetration and one-time damage than the 122 mm gun, it is quite comfortable to play on the 107 mm ZiS-6. With the right placement of a diamond on the T-150, you can very successfully tank and distribute damage. In general, the T-150 is capable of upsetting any opponent, both with its gun and armor. However, it is not easy to meet the T-150 in a random house, because, unlike the cheerful KV-1S, few people leave it in the hangar.

I have the best memories of the T-150 tank. Even with only a couple of thousand fights behind me, I felt like a real bender on it.

Armor scheme of the T-150 tank

Weakened zones in the frontal projection of the T-150 tank are the lower part of the lower armor plate (75 mm) (however, it’s convenient to shoot there except from somewhere below), the driver’s hatch and machine-gun apples (75 mm), as well as the commander’s cupola on the tower (75 mm).

Overview of the IS tank and booking scheme

Actually improved in all respects KV-1S. However, for the best booking, we pay a low maximum salary. The main problem of IS is its neighbors. Both left and right (KV-1S and IS-3), and from below - the “alternative” Soviet heavy KV-3 turned out to be very impressive.

So with all the advantages of IS, you are unlikely to leave it in your hangar. In World of Tanks, IP turned out to be unbearably boring.

I don't have any bright memories from IS. Some unpleasant - from an endless series of plums. This tank is clearly not for beginners.

IS tank booking scheme

The weakened zones in the frontal projection are the commander's turret on the tank turret (90 mm), the lower armor plate (100 mm) and the driver's hatch (110 mm).

Overview of the KV-3 tank and booking scheme

Drum roll and fanfare: meet King VII, the Soviet KV-3 heavy tank. Excellent all-round hull armor and a strong turret, a wonderful 122 mm D-25T gun make it possible to bend everyone without any problems. What's the catch, you ask? Of course, in sluggish dynamics and low maximum speed. It is very difficult to disperse 68 tons to the passport speed of 32 km/h. It is often simply impossible to move from flank to flank or return and break the capture on the KV-3. Although, everything is known in comparison. The KV-3, after all, is not the legendary American T95 tank destroyer. After playing on tanks like it, the Soviet heavy KV-3 seems quite comfortable.

Once upon a time I was completely delighted with the KV-3. If you are ready to sacrifice dynamics for the sake of bending, this tank is for you!

Armor scheme of the KV-3 tank

In the frontal projection of the tank, the weakened zones are the lower armor plate, the driver's hatch and the machine-gun apples (100 mm). When firing at the stern of the KV-3, as usual, it makes sense to shoot at the upper part of the hull, where the armor is "only" 80 mm.

Overview of the IS-3 tank and booking scheme

The IS-3 is a frankly iconic tank at Tier VIII, which, however, requires the player to have straight arms. And knowledge of his strengths and weaknesses. So, it is not recommended to put a pike nose on the IS-3 with a rhombus - this way it is only easier to break through. At the same time, from cannons with a standard Soviet penetration of 175 mm, it easily breaks through at distances up to 100 meters. Impenetrable cheatboards, on the contrary, are capable of driving an inexperienced player into a stupor. The trick of the IS-3 and IS-8 is that the fenders are hidden behind the bulwarks, which play the role of screens, and the sides themselves have a reverse angle of inclination. Therefore, shooting at the fenders is strictly not recommended. Especially from above.

The standard IS-3 tactic is to hide the pike nose and tank with a reverse diamond, giving out awesome damage of 390 on cooldown. Well, the pike nose helps well at long distances, from which classmates, as a rule, do not break through it.

Only the best memories remained about playing on the IS-3. The main claim to this tank is a very small gun depression angle.

Armor scheme of the IS-3 tank

In the frontal projection, the IS-3 has no pronounced weaknesses. Unless the tower easily breaks into the roof (20 mm) at close range from high tanks. It is better to shoot at the sides at 90 degrees under the fenders (90 mm) through the tracks. It is better not to shoot at the ricochet tower at all.

Overview of the KV-4 tank and booking scheme

It would seem that the IS-3 at Tier VIII cannot have a competitor, the tank turned out to be painfully bendy. But it seems that way only until you pump the super-heavy Soviet KV-4 tank into the top. Fantastic all-round hull armor and a solid turret make this tank very easy to use. In terms of armor, the KV-4 is very reminiscent of another Soviet heavyweight tank, the premium KV-5 tank. And if the KV-5's main weak point is the machine-gun turret on the tank hull, in which the eternally shell-shocked radio operator sits, then the KV-4 has no pronounced weakened zones. Even the machine gun turret at the top of the turret has armor up to 180 mm and complex geometry, and therefore does not always break through. After patch 0.8.6. and significantly increased accuracy of all tanks, without exception, it became quite easy to aim it at the KV-4.

The payoff for imbo armor was low top speed and sluggish dynamics. Of course, it is possible to plug up some flank on the KV-4, but in most cases it will not work to move to another flank or return to the base to bring down the capture on the KV-4.

The 107 mm ZiS-24 gun mounted on the KV-4 is noticeably inferior to the 122 mm BL-9 gun mounted on the IS-3. Including such an indicator as damage per minute. In addition, the ZiS-24 is a unique weapon that can only be mounted on the KV-4. So, having researched the next ST-1 tank, you will be forced to ride it with a 122 mm D-25T gun, inherited from the KV-3. At the seventh level, it looked good, but at IX it is simply impossible to play normally with the D-25T. So, while playing on the KV-4, save up credits to buy premium shells, or save up free experience for researching the BL-9. And, perhaps, the best option is to open the BL-9 by upgrading the IS-3.

The KV-4 is really a great tank to buy and leave in the hangar. Especially if you don't have the premium Soviet heavyweight KV-5. If you learn how to set up a tank with a reverse diamond, it will be quite easy to play on the KV-4.

Armor scheme of the KV-4 tank

In the frontal projection, the weak areas are the driver's hatch and machine-gun apples (120 mm). On the sides, the lower half of the KV-4 hull is armored worse (130 mm) than the upper half. There is a weakened zone (120 mm) in the back of the turret. The stern has armor of the same thickness of 90 mm.

Overview of the KV-5 and IS-6 tanks and armor scheme

Watch the video about the features and tactics of playing Tier VIII premium tanks:

Armor scheme of the KV-5 tank

In the frontal projection of the tank, the weakened zones are the machine-gun turret, in which the eternally shell-shocked radio operator sits (120 mm in front and 140 mm from the sides and rear) and the machine-gun turret on the tank turret, where the loader is located (150 mm). If the KV-5 turns the turret a little, you can try to pierce it in the cheek (150 mm).

Armor scheme of the IS-6 tank

The main weakened zone of the IS-6 is the driver's hatch (90 mm). If the IS-6 stands in a rhombus, it is best to punch it into the bevels of the hull. In general, the tank does not particularly have weakened zones.

Overview of the IS-8 tank and booking scheme

The IS-8 is a rather strange Soviet heavy tank. It’s better not to count on armor here, tanks of tier IX and X with top-end guns sew IS-8 in all projections. In fact, compared to the IS-3, this tank has more durability, a better gun and visibility, and a higher maximum speed. The IS-8 tries very hard to pretend that it is in fact a medium tank. However, due to its considerable weight, it goes uphill very sluggishly, and the situation with the camouflage of the IS-8 is, frankly, unimportant. The tank is clearly designed for players with arms as straight as sleepers. It will be very, very difficult for other players to play on the IS-8.

On the other hand, straight-handed players will definitely be pleased with the excellent dynamics and the 122 mm M62-T2 gun, both on the ST-1 and IS-4. The IS-8 is the tank that, due to its excellent dynamics and high maximum speed, can change positions, return to break the capture from its base and move from flank to flank. Well, the 122 mm M62-T2 gun really punishes.

Personally, I didn’t like the cannon that didn’t go down at all on the IS-8. Well, in general, the IS-8 does not correspond in any way to my ideas about what a Soviet heavy tank should be like.

Armor scheme of the IS-8 tank

The easiest way to pierce a pike nose is into the lower armor plate (120 mm), if the IS-8 is deployed strictly with its muzzle forward, or into the upper armor plate closest to you (120 mm), if the IS-8 is standing in a rhombus. The sides are easiest to break through the tracks (80 mm), because the fenders have slopes and are partially hidden by screens.

Overview of the ST-1 tank and booking scheme

What catches your eye when looking at ST-1? Firstly, the tower of epic proportions, into which our patient flies from artillery. It is also very comfortable to shoot at the sides of the tank in silhouette from tanks and anti-tank guns. And secondly, the body of the ST-1 is almost identical to the top Soviet heavy tank IS-4. Indeed, the difference in armor is only 20 mm, and even then on the sides. Unlike the IS-8, the ST-1 can be quite successfully tanked by placing a reverse rhombus. After all, like on the IS-4, the sides here are practically impenetrable. But in terms of dynamics and rate of fire, the ST-1 is noticeably inferior to its peer from the competing branch of Soviet heavy tanks. In general, it will be much easier for a beginner to play on the ST-1 than on the IS-8.

In my opinion, the ST-1 is very similar to the IS-4, including in terms of tactics of use. In World of Tanks, this is really a real Soviet heavy, and not a “semi-ST” like the IS-8.

Armor scheme of the ST-1 tank

If CT-1 plays through the tower, you can try to punch him in the cheeks (if, of course, he turns the tower away and turns his cheek). However, this is possible only from top-end guns with high penetration, armor in the cheeks of the turret is 220 mm. The body as a whole has no weak zones.

Overview of the IS-7 tank and booking scheme

A very controversial Tier X heavy tank in World of Tanks. When used correctly, it has practically impenetrable frontal armor, and a strange weapon with very weak penetration at its level, long aiming and high one-time damage. With booking, too, everything is ambiguous. On the one hand, a strong pike nose, thick fenders and small side screens, and on the other hand, the thickness of the sides under the fenders is only 100 mm. In general, the tank is very amateurish, like the IS-8. Before buying, it is highly recommended to test the IS-7 in order not to waste more than 6 thousand silver. However, this is a standard recommendation for all high-level tanks in the game.

After numerous rides on the test server, I decided not to buy the IS-7. I don't need two top Soviet heavy tanks, and of the two Tier X heavy tanks, I liked the IS-4 more. Which has a better gun, and it’s easier for me personally to use armor.

Armor scheme of the IS-7 tank

In the frontal projection of the IS-7, it is easiest to penetrate into the lower armor plate (150 mm) and into the “headlights” on the hull (closer to the place where the upper armor plates go into the fenders). In these places, the angles of inclination of the upper armor plates are the most favorable. The easiest way to penetrate the sides of the IS-7 is through the tracks, behind them the thickness of the armor is only 100 mm. But it is not recommended to shoot at the fenders.

Overview of the IS-4 tank and booking scheme

The IS-4 is arguably the best heavy tank in the game. An excellent 122 mm M62-T2 gun, familiar to us from the IS-8 and ST-1, but without the rate of fire nerf. An excellent body, and the sides, the lower frontal part and the “bill acceptor” have better armor than the upper armor plate. So when tanking on the IS-4, it is recommended to hide your forehead in every possible way, driving at opponents with a reverse rhombus. Weak VLD is perhaps the only drawback of the tank. Throwing on enemies with the muzzle forward, as on the IS-7, is strictly not recommended on it.

In my opinion, the IS-4 is an excellent tank, for which it is absolutely not a pity to pay more than 6 thousand credits. If you learn how to hide the forehead of the hull, the IS-4 is simply incredibly oppressive on city maps. A sort of Soviet Mouse.

Armor scheme of the IS-4 tank

The main weak points in the armor of the IS-4 are the upper armor plate (140 mm) and the turret roof (30 mm), which can be easily hit in a clinch from a high tank.

Reviews of other upgrade branches:

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Just started playing World of Tanks? Don't know which branches to download? Of course, it is better to be the first in the World of Tanks to pump Soviet weights! Soviet bands are thick and ricochet armor, cool rifled barrels and two equivalent tank upgrades! See for yourself by looking at the armor schemes of Soviet tanks!